Marion Lean has a grungy vibe to her graduate collection. The rubber fabrics teamed with her printed interpretations of cancerous cells made for a striking and intriguing selection of designs. Lean’s work reminded me greatly of Gareth Pugh’s initial collections, where he used impractical fabrics and incredibly unusual, if a little strange, elements and accessories. Pugh was noticed for his individuality and novel creations, which later he developed into wearable pieces in order that his line would sell (designers need to make a living, after all) and Lean’s graduate collection is very reminiscent of such innovative and considered pieces, but I wonder if many of us would really wear a pair of rubbery cycling shorts. However, this could possibly be her breakthrough into high fashion, which could then make way for a more mainstream design future.
Other Textiles collections that I particularly enjoyed:
Sophie Urquart for her ladylike, glamorous use of fur.
Caroline Bell for her delicate colour palette and sheer, ethereal fabrics.
Aimie Bene for her vibrant, kaleidoscope-esque prints.
Kathleen Hood for her use of natural resources and gothic theme (her use of animal skulls on her mannequins showed a definite flair for styling).
The jewellery designers that caught my eye included: